Journey Must-Haves
What makes it the perfect time to visit?
During the summer, Toronto, the biggest city in Canada, transforms into a vibrant, round-the-clock festival city. The Canadian National Exhibition, an event filled with amusement attractions and a plethora of gastronomical delights, serves as a delectable appetizer to the main event, the Toronto International Film Festival. You can check out the Canadian National Exhibition heretheex.com which is running from the 15th of August till the 1st of September.
The Toronto International Film Festival tiff.net, running from the 4th until the 14th of September, is a grand showcase that exceeds in size even Cannes. It offers more than 300 films to the public.
In terms of reaching Toronto, Air Canada Rouge has introduced a new flight route from Manchester straight to Toronto Pearson, making the journey easier for UK residents.
Touch down
Air Canada Rouge also offers flights from Edinburgh. Other options include Air Canada (0871 220 1111; aircanada.com) or British Airways (0844 493 0787; ba.com) from Heathrow, plus Air Transat (020 7616 9187; airtransat.co.uk) from Gatwick, Manchester or Glasgow airports.
From the airport, a taxi to Downtown will cost around C$55 (£31) and take 40 minutes. Alternatively, the Airport Express (00 1 905 564 3232; torontoairportexpress.com) bus drops at most major Downtown hotels, taking 45-60 minutes and departing every 40 minutes during the week. Singles cost C$27.95 (£16), returns C$42 (£24).
The faffiest, but cheapest way in is to take the 192 Airport Rocket bus (001 416 393 4000; ttc.ca; six to eight departures per hour) to Kipling Station (1), then use the same C$3 (£1.70) ticket on the subway network to get close to your hotel. Reckon on taking at least an hour for this.
Understanding the Layout
The geographic expanse of Toronto commences at the brink of Lake Ontario, stretching towards the north and encompassing a predominantly even landscape. The heart of the city, downtown, is a bustling hub of significant financial establishments, leading entertainment hotspots, and Union Station (2), the principal railway terminus. Situated in the core downtown area is the main Tourist Information Centre (3), conveniently located at 20 Dundas Street West (dial: 001 416 392 9300; for further information visit: see- torontonow.com ).
The northern part, known as Uptown, houses essential cultural landmarks, including the renowned University of Toronto. The true charm of Toronto, however, lies within its eastern and western neighbourhoods that skirt prominent arteries: Front, King, Queen, Dundas, and College Streets. Here life buzzes with a zest that truly embodies the spirit of the city. Rich in history and character, the neighbourhoods stand as testaments to Toronto's diverse populace and architectural styles.
Lodging Recommendations
The stylish yet pragmatic Le Germain Maple Leaf Square (4) awaits you at 75 Bremner Boulevard (00 1 416 649 7575; germainmapleleafsquare.com). The building's entrance will dazzle you with its club-inspired lighting, while the rooms boast discreet showers which ensure your privacy and are part of the hotel's sophisticated charm. Yet it's the proximity to Union Station that really gives this hotel an advantage. Room rates start at C$345 (£195), and it includes breakfast. If you're keen to explore more accommodation options in Toronto, consider paying a visit to tophotels.com. With an extensive listing covering various hotel types and price ranges, it offers extensive choices ensuring you find a comfortable stay that suits your needs and budget. Alternatively, for those prepared to sacrifice downtown access for a comfortable and affordable stay, Novotel Toronto North York is an excellent choice. Situated in a bustling area with a wide range of shops and restaurants, this hotel offers a combination of convenience and comfort that can provide a memorable experience for any traveler.
Aptly named The Gladstone (5), this hotel is housed at 1214 Queen Street West (001 416 531 4635; gladstonehotel.com). Showcasing a remarkable transformation from a historical 19th-century construction, the hotel embraces its unique charm by preserving features like the aged lift while infusing it with contemporary artistry in its 37 distinctive rooms. Add to that, a lively bar that embodies the spirit of Toronto's most creative district. The cost for a double room starts from C$214 (£121), excluding meals.
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Victoria's Mansion (6) offers great value guesthouse accommodation in the heart of the gay district at 68 Gloucester Street (001 416 921 4625; victoriasmansion.com). The charming Victorian redbrick house offers reasonably spacious, bright rooms that come with microwaves, crockery and coffee machines. Doubles from C$112 (£63), room only.
Day one
Take a hike
The bulging stonework of the Old City Hall (7) at 60 Queen Street West is worth inspection – close up, the archways are covered in a blizzard of engravings. Compare and contrast to the concrete modernist Nathan Phillips Square (8) opposite – it may be an acquired taste visually, but there's usually some sort of event going on there. Keep going along Queen Street, then turn right on McCaul Street where the spider-like legs supporting the Sharp Centre for Design (9) elicit a double take. To the west is Grange Park, where the Grange (10) – one of Toronto's oldest buildings – sits in the shadow of the Frank Gehry-designed Art Gallery of Ontario (11) at 317 Dundas Street West (001 416 979 6648; ago.ne; 10.30am-5pm Tuesday to Sunday, to 8.30pm on Wednesdays when it's also free from 6pm; admission C$19.50/£11 at other times).
Keep going north, but turn west along Baldwin Street, which has some of the most gorgeous Victorian homes in the city. It'll bring you to Kensington Market (12), the best snapshot of Toronto's character-defining diversity.
Lunch on the run
The cafés and restaurants of Kensington Market (12) cover most cuisines, but the Italian-Jamaican combo from Rasta Pasta at 61 Kensington Avenue (001 647 501 4505; open 11am-7pm) is most fun. Try jerk panino, with the chicken cooked in barbecue barrels outside, for C$7 (£4).
Window shopping
Kensington Avenue's brightly painted houses have been taken over by shops with Tibetan/Nepalese hippy jumble leanings. Serious shoppers, however, can stroll along Queen Street West from Bathurst to Dufferin Streets. Variety is the strength: art galleries rub shoulders with indie fashion outlets and specialist stores. Floorplay (13) at 762 (00 1 416 504 7325; floorplaysocks.com) is crammed with thousands of novelty socks. Meanwhile, Fashion Crimes (14) at 706 (001 416 592 9001; fashioncrimes.ca) sells bold, look-at-me dresses among tongue-in-cheek window displays of mannequins playing perfect, Stepford-esque housewives.
An aperitif
The café terrace of the Drake Hotel (15) at 1150 Queen Street West (001 416 531 5042; thedrakehotel.ca) is popular with locals due to the top drawer people-watching to be had, but the regular live music inside also helps. For an Ontario flavour, try a Toronto-brewed Mill Street Tankhouse pale ale for C$7 (£4) or a glass of Angel's Gate riesling from the Niagara Peninsula for C$9 (£5).
Experiencing Local Cuisine
If you find yourself enjoying an evening in the area, one must-visit spot is Porzia (16), conveniently located at 1314 Queen Street West (001 647 342 5776; porzia.ca; closed on Tuesday nights). This locale takes pride in serving Italian favourites with a unique flare. One standout dish here is the spaghetti with duck ragu, priced at $16 (£9), which leaves a lasting impression.
Notably, Toronto's dining scene showcases a pronounced Iberian influence. The quintessential bodega atmosphere of Bar Isabel (17) is at 797 College Street (00 1 416 532 2222; barisabel.com). Here you can enjoy Spanish-inspired specialties like the whole sea bream ceviche, tagged at $26 (£15).
Embarking on the Second Day
Sunday Morning: A Visit to a Historical Landmark
Begin your day at the St James Anglican Cathedral Church (18), located at 65 Church Street (001 416 364 7865; stjamescathedral.on.ca. Apart from regular services at 8am, 9am and 11am on Sundays, it opens to the public from 7.30am-5pm daily, except on Saturdays when the timing is 9am-5pm. This historic site impresses with its stunning Neo-Gothic exterior design, and equally captivating stained-glass windows inside.
Out to brunch
Le Papillon (19) at 69 Front Street East (00 1 416 367 0303; papillononfront) specialises in crêpes. The $15 (£8) St Laurent comes with bacon, apples and cheddar.
Take a ride
Union Station (2) is a 10-minute walk away. From here, take the subway four stations north to Queen's Park Station (20). Single fares cost C$3 (£1.70), but remember to get a free printed transfer pass for journeys of more than one leg. Day passes for the transport network cost C$11 (£6).
A walk in the park
Queen's Park (21) is hardly an oasis of calm but there's plenty to look at, including some handsome University of Toronto buildings and the Orlando Legislative Assembly.
Cultural afternoon
North of the park is Yorkville and its designer stores on Bloor Street West alongside the Royal Ontario Museum (22) (00 1 416 586 8000; rom.on.ca; 10am-5.30pm daily, Fridays until 6.30pm). Make a beeline for the gallery focusing on Canada's indigenous people on Level 1. Entry costs C$16 (£9), or C$10 (£6) on Friday after 4.30pm.
Icing on the cake
The CN Tower (23) at 301 Front Street (001 416 868 6937; cntower.ca; 9am-10.30pm) was surpassed as the world's tallest building by Dubai's Burj Khalifa. Entry, including a visit to the 447m-high Skypod, costs C$47 (£27) if booked online in advance.
For an A-grade thrill, harness up for a walk on top of the restaurant roof. The Edgewalk (001 416 601 3833; edgewalkcntower.ca; 8am-sunset daily) costs C$198 (£112). Advance booking is essential.