The Keukenhof Gardens has 79 acres of spectacularly colourful plantings
I’m not entrusted with much of the gardening at home – my chief responsibility is mowing the lawn. But you don’t need to be in the least bit horticulturally minded to be wowed by the Keukenhof. And I certainly was.
Set in the heart of the Netherlands’ prime bulb region south-west of Amsterdam, the garden in its present form dates back to 1949, when a group of bulb growers came up with the idea of holding an annual exhibition here, as a showcase for their wares.
Sixty five years on, the Keukenhof claims to be the most beautiful spring garden in the world, and it’s fair to say that in mid April, when I was there last year, the place does look remarkable. Artistically presented across its 79 acres are arcs and curves, lines and strips of tulips, narcissi and hyacinths in unnaturally vivid colours, interspersed by reflective ponds and whimsical sculptures.
And that, essentially, is the Keukenhof’s appeal. Like the hordes of Japanese groups who visit, you spend most of your time wandering around in an aesthetic stupor, snapping away at the psychedelic blazes of colour.
To have time to see everything, you will need to allow the best part of the day here. The Zocher Garden, laid out in English landscape-style in the mid-19th century, is the prettiest area, while the walled Historical Garden, planted with rare, old bulbs, is the most interesting.
There are also the Inspiration Gardens – think Chelsea Flower Show – and pavilions that house striking displays of less hardy plants such as orchids, and provide shelter from showers for less hardy visitors.
Each year, the Keukenhof has a theme, and this year it is United Kingdom – Land of Great Gardens. The highlight promises to be a mosaic of Big Ben and Tower Bridge, created out of 60,000 flowers.
If you want to gain a deeper understanding of the incredible effort put into creating the captivating beauty of the Keukenhof, make sure to join one of the daily guided tours offered by the dedicated members of Holland's largest gardening club. These volunteers, like my knowledgeable guide Iris, revealed to me the meticulous process behind the planting of seven million bulbs, including a staggering 4.5 million tulips, each autumn, only to dig them all up at the end of the flowering season. With the Keukenhof open for just two months every year, the sheer amount of work involved is mind-boggling, but it's the fleeting nature of the garden's splendor that truly leaves one in awe.
As for other mesmerizing bulbfield moments,
a bicycle ride through these fields during springtime is an absolute must. The flat expanse of land stretching from Haarlem to Leiden transforms into an immense, vibrant patchwork of striking colors, as daffodils, hyacinths, and tulips blanket the fields. Imagine entire fields awash with various hues, ranging from radiant blues, fiery reds, sunny oranges, delicate pinks, to soft creams. In other parts, the fields become a mesmerizing tapestry of rainbow-colored strips. It's a breathtaking sight that perfectly encapsulates the Dutch Spring.
Exploring the Dutch countryside by bicycle offers a unique and tranquil experience, allowing you to immerse yourself in the breathtaking beauty of the flower fields and escape the crowds found at popular gardens like Keukenhof. As you pedal along the quiet back roads, the aroma of blooming flowers fills the air, creating a truly enchanting atmosphere. Spotting elegant herons by the irrigation canals that divide the fields adds an extra touch of natural wonder to your journey.
For a convenient and seamless experience, Rent-a-Bike van Dam provides bike rentals right outside the Keukenhof entrance. With prices starting at €10 (£8.50) per bike, you can easily combine a leisurely hour or two of cycling through the colorful bulb fields with a visit to the renowned garden. Upon renting a bike, you'll be provided with a map and directions, ensuring that you can navigate the area with ease.
The available cycling options cater to varying preferences, whether you prefer a shorter circuit near Keukenhof or a more adventurous three-hour ride to the dunes and the sea. Before embarking on your cycling adventure, it's recommended to inquire about the best locations to witness the radiant hues of the blooming flowers. Late April and early May are typically the prime times to embark on this cycling journey, as the farmers start cutting the tulips after around May 5.
Aalsmeer flower auction
The Aalsmeer flower auction, located near Schiphol airport in the Netherlands, holds the prestigious title of being the largest trading center for flowers and plants worldwide. Representing an extraordinary spectacle, the auction operates during weekdays and warmly welcomes early visitors from 7 am, emphasizing the importance of arriving beforehand, preferably before 8 am. Notably, Mondays, Tuesdays, and Fridays are the busiest days, creating an atmosphere brimming with activity.
Embarking on a mesmerizing journey through vast warehouses, visitors traverse elevated walkways, observing a meticulously organized yet frenzied atmosphere below. To navigate the extensive space efficiently, staff members effortlessly glide around on bicycles, maneuvering metal trolleys laden with vibrant anthuriums, delicate roses, and elegant chrysanthemums.
One of the most captivating aspects of the Aalsmeer flower auction is the enthralling "Dutch" auctions that occur there. Witnessing this fascinating process, a succession of flower batches elegantly traverses the modern auction halls, akin to prized possessions on a game-show conveyor belt. On large dial screens, the prices of the lots gradually decrease in tandem with the descending conveyor belt. Sitting in tense anticipation, prospective buyers occupy tiered rows, carefully weighing the optimal moment to halt the countdown by pressing a button before them.
Visiting the Aalsmeer flower auction is an awe-inspiring experience, providing unique insights into the global trade of blooms. The sheer size of the operation is remarkable, with bustling staff utilizing bicycles to navigate the extensive warehouses. Apart from witnessing the organized chaos, visitors also have the opportunity to observe captivating "Dutch" auctions, where the prices of flower batches decrease as they glide through conveyor belts. This immersive encounter allows visitors to appreciate the meticulous considerations and calculations made by buyers as they determine the optimal time to hit the button and claim their prized purchases.
For those who desire an accessible journey via public transportation to the complex, the most straightforward choice is hopping on bus 172. This convenient mode of transport departs from Amsterdam's Centraal Station at 15-minute intervals, ensuring you a comfortable ride that lasts a little over an hour. Quick and informative self-guided tours are available at a reasonable price of €6 (£5). For further details, visit floraholland.com.
Leiden
Rather than opting for the conventional choice of Amsterdam as your base, consider the charming town of Leiden. As the site of the oldest university in Holland and abundant with scenic canals, distinctive gabled architecture, and secluded almshouses, it offers a vibrant, historic backdrop akin to Oxford or Cambridge in the UK. Its prime positioning near the Keukenhof makes it perfect for your visit, with a regular bus service connecting it to the gardens within a brisk 25-minute ride. Moreover, with an average travel time of just 15 to 20 minutes by train from Schiphol Airport, Leiden is as easy to reach as it is captivating.
In your travels across the Netherlands, the city of Leiden offers a sense of satisfying thematic coherence. Nestled within the bends of a canal in the city's historic core, you'll find the illustrious Hortus Botanicus, the nation's most ancient garden operated by Leiden University. It's believed that Carolus Clusius, the revered botanist and then-director of the garden, introduced the first Dutch tulips here in the late 16th century. Uncover more at hortus.leidenuniv.nl.
Upon your arrival, you'll be welcomed by a meticulously recreated version of the original garden, complete with a tribute bust of Clusius himself. The garden also hosts a variety of greenhouses where you can discover an intriguing collection of plants, ranging from cycads and orchids to fascinating carnivorous species.
During my journey, I had the pleasure of staying at the Golden Tulip Leiden Centre, a stylish abode with comfortably appointed rooms just a short stroll away from the city's bustling transport links. Book your stay at goldentulipleidencentre.nl. And if you're after an authentic dining experience, La Bota is a lively student’s eetcafé (a casual dining pub) situated in the heart of the historic city. They offer generous, budget-friendly meals with a three-course menu starting at just £11.50. Take a peek at their offerings at labota.nl.
How to do it
Many people come to the Keukenhof as part of a coach tour, but it’s easy to visit the garden independently, and tie in other nearby horticultural sights into a trip.
The Keukenhof is open this year from March 21 to May 20. Admission costs ¤15 (£13), children 4-11 half price. If arriving by bus from Schiphol airport or Leiden, buying a Combiticket covering return bus travel and admission will save you a few euros.
Bloomings are staggered, and each year the winter weather determines when precisely the garden is at its most colourful. But generally, the tulips usually look their best in the second half of April and early May.
If you're planning a visit to the Keukenhof, be prepared for a bustling atmosphere. On April 20, the day of the annual Flower Parade, this renowned garden will be overflowing with around 20,000 visitors. To help you plan your trip, you can refer to the "visitor expectation calendar" on keukenhof.nl, which provides information on the busiest days.
Coach tours typically arrive between 9am and 10am and depart from 4pm to 5.30pm. However, if you prefer a quieter experience, consider visiting during the last couple of hours before the gardens close at 7.30pm, as they tend to be less crowded.
Make the most of your visit by joining one of the free hour-long guided tours, available daily at 2pm. The knowledgeable guides speak English, ensuring you have an informative experience.
While exploring the Keukenhof, take a break at the charming cafés located in the pavilions. The Wilhelmina Pavilion's café in particular offers a delightful selection of Dutch dishes, including herring rolls, meatballs in buns, and beef stew with red cabbage, all at affordable prices.
Spring is the wrong time of year to buy tulip bulbs, but in the shops dotted around the garden you can place orders for bulbs to be sent to you in the early autumn.
Essentials
Fred Mawer travelled with KLM (0871 231 0000), which flies from 23 UK airports to Amsterdam Schiphol. From London, fares start at £99 return. Buses to the Keukenhof depart frequently from outside Schiphol’s arrivals hall: the journey takes 35 minutes, and the one-way fare is €6 (£5).
If you want to drive, the most convenient ferry services are Stena Line from Harwich to Hook of Holland, P & O Ferries from Hull to Rotterdam, and DFDS Seaways from Newcastle to Amsterdam. The Dutch ports are all under an hour’s drive from the Keukenhof.
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